Thought I would break this post up a little.....here is part 2!
Breaking our two weeks into two different trips `with Sal`and `without Sall`made the break seem much longer!
Our plan after Sal left again was to head to Ziganchour in Casamance on a big ferry boat that makes the route twice a week. Unfortunately the tickets were sold out so instead we decided to take the long, dusty road! We heard that there was a bus that left from near the port every morning around 6 am so we planned to grab that. Tuesday morning we were off on a bus to Banjul...well, to the border with Gambia. We met a really nice family on the bus who had been in Dakar for a wedding and they sort of took us under their wing and helped us with border formalities, changing money, and getting to the ferry!
You find amazing people in every corner of the world!!!
After Banjul the three of us had different ideas of where to go. Lenny wanted to head south to Casamance as quickly as possible in order to spend some nice relaxing days on the beach. Samantha and I were more up for an in-country trip in the Gambia to explore a little more. So the day after arriving in Banjul we split up.
Samantha and I went to a place called Denton Bridge in search of a boat to take us up the river to a place called Tendaba Camp. Unforunately, the Gambia river is not used so much for commercial reasons and so our only option would be to rent a touristy-boat thingy for lots and lots of money! Much more money than we could afford!! So - back to the road!!
We spent two nights in Tenadaba camp which is a fancy-little place that has had several owners in its history but currently is owned by a Gambian and employs about 90 people!! It was really nice! We got to walk a little in the mangroves and forests and then took a pirogue ride to try to see crocs! Unfortunately the crocs were all hiding but we did see a Fishing Owl, apparently quite rare!
Gambia is an interesting place. It was bizarre to switch to english so quickly and we spent the first two days talking to everyone in French and getting blank looks in return. The english is quite different though and so at times I almost wished I could explain in French because it would have been easier! Funny eh!!
The Gambians we met were super interesting. They seemed to be more relaxed and willing to help but at the same time the `business` folks we met were a little more coniving then Senegalese. We met a taxi man, for example, who told us that there were NO buses that would take us to Ziganchour and so we had to take a taxi - that turned out to be a blatant lie. That hasnt really happened so much here in Senegal!
We met this really interesting young Gambian who recently won an essay competition held through the American Embassy in Banjul. He wrote on the topic of Barak Obama`s new administration and what it could bring to the Gambia. It was really interesting and he told us about his dreams of becoming a journalist and bringing truth to all the things that the Gambian government hides. The Gambian government does not look well upon Journalists and this boys parents were very worried for him but he felt that it was important to encourage freedom of the press even if it meant putting his life in danger! He was quite a brave young man....
Tendaba camp to Ziganchour! In Ziganchour we were supposed to meet with a friend that the girls had made in December when they were travelling but he had gone home to his town for the holidays and so instead we met a friend of this friend! He helped us find a place to stay and that night took us out to see a traditional Lutte! Wrestling is the main sport in Senegal after soccer. Not wrestling like we have back home but traditional wrestling. It was soooo interesting! If ever there was an example of violence breeding violence it was there that night. The engery level and testoterone level was so high that there were constantly little fights breaking out and yelling and intensity after every bout! But as quickly as people started to argue that stopped again and put all of their energy into cheering and supporting their chosen wrestler! People were so intense that to be honest most of the time I couldnt tell if they were yelling because they were angry or because they were encouraging! Wow - intense!!!!!
That night we met up again with Lenny! She had travelled South into Casamance and we all re-united in Zig. We also went out dancing in Ziganchour with Lamine, our new friend, and a friend of his Pica. Both of them are barbers in one of the neighbourhoods! Very nice guys!
From Ziganchour Lenny headed off again to a place called Isle de Karabane for her relaxing beach time. Samantha and I were a little less clear of our plans. We decided to head to a town called Oussouye for the afternoon and then play it by ear where we spent the night. Oussouye was interesting but rather small so after a failed attempt to join Lenny at Isle de Karabane we decided to go straight to Diembering and join the friend that we had originally wanted to meet in Ziganchour in his home town.
Israel (yes, like the country...it gets better, his father`s name is American...that`s right...American) met us when we got to Diembering and took us to his house where he lives with his whole family, brothers, sisters, cousins, aunts, uncles! We had a fantastic time in Diembering. It is a largely Christian town so with Easter around the corner it was party time in the village!! We hung out at the beach, went dancing Saturday night with ALL of the young people at Diembering, drank way too much Palm Wine and even went to Mass on Sunday!!
If I was the kind of person who could live in a village for the rest of my life I think it would be Diembering! It has such charm and character. Little tiny sandy streets weave in between family courtyards and houses! Chickens, pigs, goats roam all over....children run and play on the roots of HUGE HUGE trees! The beach is a 10 minute walk away and stretches as far as the eye can see in either direction! Because it was easter everyone was home for the holidays so there was life and people in the streets all the time!! Israel and his family were so welcoming and I haven`t eaten that well in a long time! Oh, we ate Pelican!!!! mmmmm
Sunday Lenny joined us in Diembering for the day because when we told Israel`s mom we were leaving right after Mass she told us we couldnt because she had killed an extra chicked for us! So...we spent the day and headed in to Cap Skiring in the evening.
That was the ride of `merde`. On Easter Sunday people go to Mass in the morning and then start drinking Palm Wine and continue until the next day. The car that we took in to town was an open top, open sided jeep. Like most transportation is was way overloaded with two people hanging of the back and two people hanging off the sides! The driver was driving fast but not crazily scary! Then someone decided it would be a good idea to open a bottle of wine!!!! One of the guys asked everyone not to pass the bottle to the driver...but oops, somehow that happened anyway. Lenny, Samantha and I started yelling and told the driver to stop and we freaked out a little. That was okay, he was sorry...he wouldnt do it again and we continued! But then surprise surprise he grabbed the bottle again and started chugging down the wine. Lenny reached forward and pulled the bottle from his hand and in the process spilled wine all over his shirt. That didnt make him happy! He stopped the car and we all proceeded to have a yelling fight with us asking people to move so that we could get out of the car, the driver telling us to get out, and everyone else asking us to sit down so we could continue! No one would let us out and in reality we were a number of kilometers from town. The reality is that the driver had probably been drinking since the morning anyway and every trip he took he put more and more people`s lives at risk. I don`t care what anyone says but his reasoning that ¨this is Africa not Europe¨ is totally unacceptable! When it was all over he still didnt seem to understand that drunk driving is dangerous but he did seem a little upset when Lenny told him that he had disrespected us all in the car! Disrespecting people here is a big no-no and so even if he didnt understand why he had disrespected us, he felt a little guilty!
Patience, Patience, Patience....the word has never meant so much to me as it does here. I am finding it much easier than you would think to have patience! I have learnt that about myself...thank god!!
So - our last night in Casamance was spent in Cap Skiring. Another one of Israel`s friends met us and helped us find a place to stay. Kelly works as a gold caddy at the club med in town and so he knows all the ins and outs of town! He also helped us negotiate a car back to Ziganchour the next day. I love this concept of the African Family - the girls met Israel at Christmas, so as friends of theirs he opened up his home to us to stay, in return all his friends opened their arms and all without expectations or demands! Of course they would help us out...we are guests and strangers in their country....what else would they do!!! I love that mentality...
At this point our trip was almost over! All that was left was a loong boat ride from Ziganchour to Dakar! A boat trip that for the girls had resembled a horror movie with people stumbling around being sick everywhere but for us was relatively tranquil and painless! We slept calmly all night in comfy reclining chairs and arrived in Dakar safe and sound the following morning!
And now we are back on campus. Classes have started up and so far look very promising. So far I have been to two classes - Sociology of Water and a Population and Migration class! I have a number that I am hoping to take this semester including a African Women class, Senegalese Politics, Gender and Society, African Litterature, Cultural Identity, Family and Health, and Physchology. Who knows if I will stick with all of those but those are the ¨trial courses¨!
That was that adventure! At the end of every trip I always look forward to arriving in Dakar because there I know how things work, what prices are, where to go for things...and that feeling only grows once we hit Saint Louis and then campus. Here we are based and at this point there are very few surprises each day. It feels nice to feel home once we get on campus! It feels nice to appreciate my village and my room.
It feels like home!
Saturday, April 18, 2009
Part 1 - Easter Vacation travel-ness
Senegal Discovery!
Travelling is an amazing thing. There are so many ways to travel, so many places to go, things to see, people to meet. What I love the most is that it doesnt matter where you go, you always meet interesting people....people that challenge your the way you think, that re-affirm your faith in humanity and of course people that, honestly, just make you question to what length your patience will hold out!!!
I think that is why it is so hard to give advice on where to travel and what to see because it isnt where you go but who you meet that makes a trip what it is. The landscape never changes but the people do....
Our trip south through Senegal was really fantastic. The first week we spent with Lenny`s dad, on his whirl wind visit to Senegal. It was nice having a car and being able to get somewhere without spending the entire day travelling between towns. It meant we had much more time to see and do!
We visited Joal-Fadiout - twin towns attached by a long bridge. Fadiout being the island town made mostly of sea shells. It boasts a beautiful mixed cemetery on another little island made of seashells. We stayed in a hostel in Joal over looking the river, went for a long walk to Fadiout and along the beach and met a really interesting french man living in Joal writing an ecotourism guide book for the region and carrying out wildlife sensibilization projects with the local communities, particularly in regards to the sea turtle. He was trying to mix responisble tourism with wildlife protection in a way that benefits the community economical but doesn`t risk the environment in the process. Very interesting man! Showed us his impressive collection of various sea creature remains washed up onto the beach!!
From Joal-Fadiout we headed to Saly. Saly is Senegal`s uber-tourist destination. There are two parts to Saly; Saly-Portugal and Saly-Niakniakhale. In Saly-Portugal you could easily be confused about where you are and think that you are in any rish snazy seaside holiday desitination town. Saly-Niakniakhale is a little bit more local with sandy alleys, small boutiques on every corner and sheep roaming free all around. We stayed in Saly-Niakniakhale in a very nice little auberge about 100 m from a gorgeous white sand beach! What I love about beaches in Senegal is that even on the `touristy`beaches you find tons of people milling around. It seems like all the local young boys come to work out, run, play soccer and all the local kids come to splash in the water and poke at washed up sea creatures.
Of course you have all the local vendors too wandering around hitting up the tourists in hopes a good sell for the day!! So much life on the beach! Although, if you want a nice relaxing peaceful sejour on the beach...perhaps not the best place to go. Less than 5 minutes after stepping on to the sand the vendors approach to sell their wares. And this is where it gets interesting....
The men who sell, in general, are quite persistent but if you explain very calmly and apologetically that you are not looking to buy but you appreciate their items for sale and you hope they have a good day, they will often be a little disappointed but will call you `gentille` and with a few pleasanteries move on their way in hopes of a sell further down the beach. The women in Saly just got angry! It didnt matter how polite we were, they got mad and shot death stares in our direction anytime we saw them afterwards. So bizarre...
So, Saly-Niakniakhale was one night and one morning on the beach! After which we headed off to Toubab Diallo. We had hoped to stop at a national park just before Toubab Diallo which is supposed to have an impressive collection of animals but unfortunately the park has been privatized and so entrance was much much more than we could afford! Not sure what the point is of a park that only uber-rich tourists can acces...but that is a debate for another time!
Toubab Diallo! What an amazing little town. Set on cliffs and hilly ground it looks a little bit like greece when you are up top looking down over the village towards the sea! We stayed in an auberge that was built by a Haitian and we had a room with a door that opened up onto a little cliff overlooking the sea!! Too beautiful!!
Sal, Lenny`s dad, was quite taken by this peaceful little spot that he offered to pay for our accomodation if we stayed another night! No complaints there from our end ;)
We spent an entire day just lounging on the beach and chatting with the multitude of Rastas that populate Toubab Diallo! We met one really interesting guy who owned an auberge and club right beside ours. He had lived in Sweden for 8 years to study and work, had swedish nationality and spoke swedish fluently! He had bought this auberge and was running it because he had wanted to do something in his community to help young people find jobs (many of his friends) and he was curretnly building a house so that he could move back. He talked about how hard it was for him to be this sort of in-between person because in Sweden he was never really considered as `swedish`but after so many years away in Senegal he was starting to be seen as `not-senegalese`. He wanted to move back to regain his identity! Very interesting guy!
That was that trip with Sal! The Sunday we left Toubab Diallo in the afternoon and very very impressively, if I do say so myself, Lenny and I were able to direct Sal through the traffic in Dakar to Masco`s house (a friend who we usually stay with) so we could grab dinner and Sal could head off to the airport!
(I would like to post photos but I am using the outside wifi connection and it is just much to slow! So bientot....I promise)
Travelling is an amazing thing. There are so many ways to travel, so many places to go, things to see, people to meet. What I love the most is that it doesnt matter where you go, you always meet interesting people....people that challenge your the way you think, that re-affirm your faith in humanity and of course people that, honestly, just make you question to what length your patience will hold out!!!
I think that is why it is so hard to give advice on where to travel and what to see because it isnt where you go but who you meet that makes a trip what it is. The landscape never changes but the people do....
Our trip south through Senegal was really fantastic. The first week we spent with Lenny`s dad, on his whirl wind visit to Senegal. It was nice having a car and being able to get somewhere without spending the entire day travelling between towns. It meant we had much more time to see and do!
We visited Joal-Fadiout - twin towns attached by a long bridge. Fadiout being the island town made mostly of sea shells. It boasts a beautiful mixed cemetery on another little island made of seashells. We stayed in a hostel in Joal over looking the river, went for a long walk to Fadiout and along the beach and met a really interesting french man living in Joal writing an ecotourism guide book for the region and carrying out wildlife sensibilization projects with the local communities, particularly in regards to the sea turtle. He was trying to mix responisble tourism with wildlife protection in a way that benefits the community economical but doesn`t risk the environment in the process. Very interesting man! Showed us his impressive collection of various sea creature remains washed up onto the beach!!
From Joal-Fadiout we headed to Saly. Saly is Senegal`s uber-tourist destination. There are two parts to Saly; Saly-Portugal and Saly-Niakniakhale. In Saly-Portugal you could easily be confused about where you are and think that you are in any rish snazy seaside holiday desitination town. Saly-Niakniakhale is a little bit more local with sandy alleys, small boutiques on every corner and sheep roaming free all around. We stayed in Saly-Niakniakhale in a very nice little auberge about 100 m from a gorgeous white sand beach! What I love about beaches in Senegal is that even on the `touristy`beaches you find tons of people milling around. It seems like all the local young boys come to work out, run, play soccer and all the local kids come to splash in the water and poke at washed up sea creatures.
Of course you have all the local vendors too wandering around hitting up the tourists in hopes a good sell for the day!! So much life on the beach! Although, if you want a nice relaxing peaceful sejour on the beach...perhaps not the best place to go. Less than 5 minutes after stepping on to the sand the vendors approach to sell their wares. And this is where it gets interesting....
The men who sell, in general, are quite persistent but if you explain very calmly and apologetically that you are not looking to buy but you appreciate their items for sale and you hope they have a good day, they will often be a little disappointed but will call you `gentille` and with a few pleasanteries move on their way in hopes of a sell further down the beach. The women in Saly just got angry! It didnt matter how polite we were, they got mad and shot death stares in our direction anytime we saw them afterwards. So bizarre...
So, Saly-Niakniakhale was one night and one morning on the beach! After which we headed off to Toubab Diallo. We had hoped to stop at a national park just before Toubab Diallo which is supposed to have an impressive collection of animals but unfortunately the park has been privatized and so entrance was much much more than we could afford! Not sure what the point is of a park that only uber-rich tourists can acces...but that is a debate for another time!
Toubab Diallo! What an amazing little town. Set on cliffs and hilly ground it looks a little bit like greece when you are up top looking down over the village towards the sea! We stayed in an auberge that was built by a Haitian and we had a room with a door that opened up onto a little cliff overlooking the sea!! Too beautiful!!
Sal, Lenny`s dad, was quite taken by this peaceful little spot that he offered to pay for our accomodation if we stayed another night! No complaints there from our end ;)
We spent an entire day just lounging on the beach and chatting with the multitude of Rastas that populate Toubab Diallo! We met one really interesting guy who owned an auberge and club right beside ours. He had lived in Sweden for 8 years to study and work, had swedish nationality and spoke swedish fluently! He had bought this auberge and was running it because he had wanted to do something in his community to help young people find jobs (many of his friends) and he was curretnly building a house so that he could move back. He talked about how hard it was for him to be this sort of in-between person because in Sweden he was never really considered as `swedish`but after so many years away in Senegal he was starting to be seen as `not-senegalese`. He wanted to move back to regain his identity! Very interesting guy!
That was that trip with Sal! The Sunday we left Toubab Diallo in the afternoon and very very impressively, if I do say so myself, Lenny and I were able to direct Sal through the traffic in Dakar to Masco`s house (a friend who we usually stay with) so we could grab dinner and Sal could head off to the airport!
(I would like to post photos but I am using the outside wifi connection and it is just much to slow! So bientot....I promise)
Sunday, April 5, 2009
On the road again...na na na na na...On the road again....
Here we are... on the road again!
After a bit of confusion and waiting around for classes to start we realized that we would have about two weeks off for the national holiday for Independence and for Easter (back to back) so here we are...
Lenny's dad decided to come for a quick whirlwind trip of Senegal for one week!! Bravely he decide to rent a car and tackle the streets of Senegal for his first trip in West Africa. I guess maybe living in Montreal prepared him for eratic driving :)
We spent the week along the coast just south of Dakar in what you could call the uber-vacation! Nice beaches, sunshine...relaxing!!!! It was pretty fanastic and much posher than any travelling we have done to date. It was really interesting travelling with an older man, father-figure, and hearing all of his impressions and comments and ideas. So many things he found shocking just seemed normal to us and it helped us re-see everything with new eyes.
The car-rapides for example, which are buses that are sort of like public transport....often the guy who collects the fair hangs outside the bus with the door open!! Lenny's dad just couldnt get over it and thought it was so funny and dangerous. I cant say I ever really thought about it as much as he did. Now when I see it I smile....funny what becomes natural to your everyday life!!
So...now he is on his way to Paris on an overnight flight and we are preparing to take a boat to Casamance in Southern Senegal. We have about a week left and the plan is to head south....visit a bit of the green, nature area of Senegal and then slowly make our way back overland to Saint Louis.
Oh no...out of internet time!!
Update to come once back in Saint Louis!!! Just wanted to let everyone know I am alive and well....Happy easter!
After a bit of confusion and waiting around for classes to start we realized that we would have about two weeks off for the national holiday for Independence and for Easter (back to back) so here we are...
Lenny's dad decided to come for a quick whirlwind trip of Senegal for one week!! Bravely he decide to rent a car and tackle the streets of Senegal for his first trip in West Africa. I guess maybe living in Montreal prepared him for eratic driving :)
We spent the week along the coast just south of Dakar in what you could call the uber-vacation! Nice beaches, sunshine...relaxing!!!! It was pretty fanastic and much posher than any travelling we have done to date. It was really interesting travelling with an older man, father-figure, and hearing all of his impressions and comments and ideas. So many things he found shocking just seemed normal to us and it helped us re-see everything with new eyes.
The car-rapides for example, which are buses that are sort of like public transport....often the guy who collects the fair hangs outside the bus with the door open!! Lenny's dad just couldnt get over it and thought it was so funny and dangerous. I cant say I ever really thought about it as much as he did. Now when I see it I smile....funny what becomes natural to your everyday life!!
So...now he is on his way to Paris on an overnight flight and we are preparing to take a boat to Casamance in Southern Senegal. We have about a week left and the plan is to head south....visit a bit of the green, nature area of Senegal and then slowly make our way back overland to Saint Louis.
Oh no...out of internet time!!
Update to come once back in Saint Louis!!! Just wanted to let everyone know I am alive and well....Happy easter!
Wednesday, March 18, 2009
Animals in jars
I guess I am falling a bit behind in posting so it is time for an update!
School goes on as usually. This is the first week of socio classes for second semester and so, as expected, most profs are not yet around! Next week the classes should kick off for sure. The biggest problem is that the students have decided to take this week off essentially because the two weeks before they have been working insanely hard with assignments, exams and in-class tests all crammed together in an attempt to finish up first semester!! But soon classes will get underway. This semester I will even have some classes with female profs!! That will be interesting!!
While classes go on as usual...we seek out our excitement off campus, and sometimes it finds us without us even asking.
Yesterday we had a meeting with a man who directs an organization for orphans in Saint Louis. There is no orphanage in Saint Louis, so this organization works with orphans and abandoned kids by providing them with an extra support base for all of their needs. This man is just really incredible! He has such a big heart and gives all of his time for others...He is also a veterinarian by profession. Which means that in his office in the back corner he has odd specimens preserved in big glass jars. Yes yes, it is as creepy as it sounds.
We walked in to his office and all of us (Lenny, Annie, Genet and I) gasped at these dead animals in jars! It was a little hard to see what they were but none of us wanted to get too close. Then the director came in and told us that before we could talk about the subject at hand (orphans and the association) he needed to explain something to us and show us something! He then went on to explain that in the jars were specimens of abnormal births of various animals. There were siamese twin lambs, a 3 meter long python, a turtle (not sure what the defect was there), the penis of a bull with two shafts, a lamb with two tongues and three nostrils, and the most astonishing....a lamb with the head of a rabbit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am not joking! He explained that all of these were found or brought to him while he studied and worked as a vetenarian. We spent about 20 minutes peering into the jars while he explained how they found these specimens and where in detail and totally nonchalantly.
I think Genet and Annie took pictures, so I will try to post those eventually. I am not even sure what to think. Most of the animals seemed fairly possible...siamese lambs, okay...believable....two tongues, three nostrils, strange but certainly possible...But never have I ever seen anything like the lamb with the rabbit's head. And I looked for stitching to see if it had been tampered with...certainly didn't look like it. I know that this sounds crazy...I don't even know what to think!! All I know is I certainly hadn't expected to see such bizarre things on a normal everday Tuesday afternoon!!!!
And then just as normally as he had introduced his 'specimens' we sat back down and he explained the situation in Saint Louis for orphans and abandoned children!! A situation that is super complex...That story will have to be for another time...
For now I will leave you with the image of the 'miracle of birth' as they call it...
Ligeey Ligeey!!
School goes on as usually. This is the first week of socio classes for second semester and so, as expected, most profs are not yet around! Next week the classes should kick off for sure. The biggest problem is that the students have decided to take this week off essentially because the two weeks before they have been working insanely hard with assignments, exams and in-class tests all crammed together in an attempt to finish up first semester!! But soon classes will get underway. This semester I will even have some classes with female profs!! That will be interesting!!
While classes go on as usual...we seek out our excitement off campus, and sometimes it finds us without us even asking.
Yesterday we had a meeting with a man who directs an organization for orphans in Saint Louis. There is no orphanage in Saint Louis, so this organization works with orphans and abandoned kids by providing them with an extra support base for all of their needs. This man is just really incredible! He has such a big heart and gives all of his time for others...He is also a veterinarian by profession. Which means that in his office in the back corner he has odd specimens preserved in big glass jars. Yes yes, it is as creepy as it sounds.
We walked in to his office and all of us (Lenny, Annie, Genet and I) gasped at these dead animals in jars! It was a little hard to see what they were but none of us wanted to get too close. Then the director came in and told us that before we could talk about the subject at hand (orphans and the association) he needed to explain something to us and show us something! He then went on to explain that in the jars were specimens of abnormal births of various animals. There were siamese twin lambs, a 3 meter long python, a turtle (not sure what the defect was there), the penis of a bull with two shafts, a lamb with two tongues and three nostrils, and the most astonishing....a lamb with the head of a rabbit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am not joking! He explained that all of these were found or brought to him while he studied and worked as a vetenarian. We spent about 20 minutes peering into the jars while he explained how they found these specimens and where in detail and totally nonchalantly.
I think Genet and Annie took pictures, so I will try to post those eventually. I am not even sure what to think. Most of the animals seemed fairly possible...siamese lambs, okay...believable....two tongues, three nostrils, strange but certainly possible...But never have I ever seen anything like the lamb with the rabbit's head. And I looked for stitching to see if it had been tampered with...certainly didn't look like it. I know that this sounds crazy...I don't even know what to think!! All I know is I certainly hadn't expected to see such bizarre things on a normal everday Tuesday afternoon!!!!
And then just as normally as he had introduced his 'specimens' we sat back down and he explained the situation in Saint Louis for orphans and abandoned children!! A situation that is super complex...That story will have to be for another time...
For now I will leave you with the image of the 'miracle of birth' as they call it...
Ligeey Ligeey!!
Tuesday, March 3, 2009
Ça c’est l’afrique…
Sociology exams DONE - Political Science exams...upcoming!
Yesterday we FINALLY finished our sociology exams. I only had two to do and was totally prepared for them last week (when they were scheduled to be) but 'Ça c’est l’afrique'** so no such luck at doing them they day they were scheduled :) Both profs postponed until Monday. Which - wasn't a bad thing since in reality it meant more study time!
In the end the exams were...interesting. The first one was in our development durable course. The way these exams work (they are oral) are that you show up, and you write your name on a list and then about 4 students at a time are called in. Everyone is given a subject and you have a few minutes to prepare...then one by one you present. You can be sitting there for hours!
We started the process in the morning at 10 with on prof and didn't finish until 5 with the other prof - all the waiting around. The first prof was pretty bad. He took students until about 1:00 and then took a break until 3:00 and at that point he only took some of the students. The rest had to wait until today. But he had promised us we would go at three but he didn't tell us he had to leave at 4:00. So we finally got into his office at 10 to 4 and he said he was in a hurry so it had to be quick. We each had 5 minutes...he wasn't even listening and he even made phone calls while we were talking. He most certainly just made up random marks!!! But thats okay, its over! And apparently he is a really great academic, he just doesn't show it so much to his students....
The second exam was more serious and the prof actually listened and took interest and asked questions! Phew!!
At this point I am just glad it is over. Now we move on to exams in poli sci! ARGH!
Wish me luck!
_______________________
**
Ça c’est l’afrique – This is Africa!
This little phrase is a favorite of people here. Our profs say it, sometimes multiple times in one class. Students say it to explain inexplicable things that happen. Anything that seems a little odd ‘This is Africa’….some of you will understand!
And
Ça c’est Canada...according to Prof. Dieng
We have this hilarious professor for Environmental Law! He is so great. He teases the students all the time and makes jokes. He was talking about climate change and extreme temperatures and started talking about how cold it is in places like Canada. Then he asked us how cold it could get. I said -20 C was pretty average for the heart of winter. Then he said “you guys have a lot of tunnels don’t you?” and Lenny and I kind of looked confused and said “yes, sort of, in some cities…” and he went on to this huge spiel about how Canadians live underground and never emerge during the winter and they escape to their underground safety when it gets cold because it they go outside they will die horrible deaths…the whole class was laughing! And this is how misconceptions are perpetuated :) Although, I hope the students knew he was joking!
Yesterday we FINALLY finished our sociology exams. I only had two to do and was totally prepared for them last week (when they were scheduled to be) but 'Ça c’est l’afrique'** so no such luck at doing them they day they were scheduled :) Both profs postponed until Monday. Which - wasn't a bad thing since in reality it meant more study time!
In the end the exams were...interesting. The first one was in our development durable course. The way these exams work (they are oral) are that you show up, and you write your name on a list and then about 4 students at a time are called in. Everyone is given a subject and you have a few minutes to prepare...then one by one you present. You can be sitting there for hours!
We started the process in the morning at 10 with on prof and didn't finish until 5 with the other prof - all the waiting around. The first prof was pretty bad. He took students until about 1:00 and then took a break until 3:00 and at that point he only took some of the students. The rest had to wait until today. But he had promised us we would go at three but he didn't tell us he had to leave at 4:00. So we finally got into his office at 10 to 4 and he said he was in a hurry so it had to be quick. We each had 5 minutes...he wasn't even listening and he even made phone calls while we were talking. He most certainly just made up random marks!!! But thats okay, its over! And apparently he is a really great academic, he just doesn't show it so much to his students....
The second exam was more serious and the prof actually listened and took interest and asked questions! Phew!!
At this point I am just glad it is over. Now we move on to exams in poli sci! ARGH!
Wish me luck!
_______________________
**
Ça c’est l’afrique – This is Africa!
This little phrase is a favorite of people here. Our profs say it, sometimes multiple times in one class. Students say it to explain inexplicable things that happen. Anything that seems a little odd ‘This is Africa’….some of you will understand!
And
Ça c’est Canada...according to Prof. Dieng
We have this hilarious professor for Environmental Law! He is so great. He teases the students all the time and makes jokes. He was talking about climate change and extreme temperatures and started talking about how cold it is in places like Canada. Then he asked us how cold it could get. I said -20 C was pretty average for the heart of winter. Then he said “you guys have a lot of tunnels don’t you?” and Lenny and I kind of looked confused and said “yes, sort of, in some cities…” and he went on to this huge spiel about how Canadians live underground and never emerge during the winter and they escape to their underground safety when it gets cold because it they go outside they will die horrible deaths…the whole class was laughing! And this is how misconceptions are perpetuated :) Although, I hope the students knew he was joking!
Tuesday, February 17, 2009
A different system...
When you go to a different country to study it comes with the territory that you need to adapt to a different system both in terms of the education and in terms of the administration. I have no problems with that, and in fact often it is exciting to see different ways of teaching or organizing!! The problem arises when no one bothers to tell you or explain to you how the system is different. It is incredibly hard to adapt to something you don't understand!!!!!!!!!!!!
Call me crazy but to me it makes sense that when a foreign student arrives someone (maybe the exchange coordinator or maybe a student) gives a brief little explanation of how the classes function and how we keep on top of things going on on campus. Certainly it is to a large our responsibility to figure that out but a little guidance to help us integrate would be so fantastic!
Today I got to class at 8:00 (okay, let's be honest I was a bit late so it was more like 8:15). All the students were there furiously writing away in what looked like exam booklets. Surprise surprise, we have a 'devoir' or a test to do in class. What? You didn't know about it? Let's all stare at you and laugh!!!
Okay - maybe my bitterness is a little harsh. I recognize that we could have taken a bit more initiative to figure things out. We keep waiting for the professors to offer up some course structure about exams and assignments but it just doesn't come and we should have taken that as a sign. But I still find it a bit unfair for the professors and students to assume that we would just fall into the system and understand that OBVIOUSLY the professor doesn't tell you anything in class about assignments or tests, clearly he posts the information at the sociology department office and clearly there is a class representative in ever class who the prof passes information to and then the student passes it on to others (though, curiously, not the exchange students)...
Well - at least now we know (it only took 4 months) and hopefully that means second semester will run a little bit more smoothly without missed assignments and tests. As for the devoir this morning, we decided not to do it and to go talk to the professor about an alternate assessment later today. Hopefully he understands and we can work something out. If not, we will just chalk it up to another experience to be remembered...
Ah man...everyday is full of fun surprises! All you can do is laugh it off and move on...
I have a rendezvous with a friend in the Socio department this afternoon for a full break down of HOW classes function...where info is posted...and how to figure out who your class rep. is...He took pity on my tears this morning! At least the students here are great...if the welcoming committee is a bit lacking :)
Call me crazy but to me it makes sense that when a foreign student arrives someone (maybe the exchange coordinator or maybe a student) gives a brief little explanation of how the classes function and how we keep on top of things going on on campus. Certainly it is to a large our responsibility to figure that out but a little guidance to help us integrate would be so fantastic!
Today I got to class at 8:00 (okay, let's be honest I was a bit late so it was more like 8:15). All the students were there furiously writing away in what looked like exam booklets. Surprise surprise, we have a 'devoir' or a test to do in class. What? You didn't know about it? Let's all stare at you and laugh!!!
Okay - maybe my bitterness is a little harsh. I recognize that we could have taken a bit more initiative to figure things out. We keep waiting for the professors to offer up some course structure about exams and assignments but it just doesn't come and we should have taken that as a sign. But I still find it a bit unfair for the professors and students to assume that we would just fall into the system and understand that OBVIOUSLY the professor doesn't tell you anything in class about assignments or tests, clearly he posts the information at the sociology department office and clearly there is a class representative in ever class who the prof passes information to and then the student passes it on to others (though, curiously, not the exchange students)...
Well - at least now we know (it only took 4 months) and hopefully that means second semester will run a little bit more smoothly without missed assignments and tests. As for the devoir this morning, we decided not to do it and to go talk to the professor about an alternate assessment later today. Hopefully he understands and we can work something out. If not, we will just chalk it up to another experience to be remembered...
Ah man...everyday is full of fun surprises! All you can do is laugh it off and move on...
I have a rendezvous with a friend in the Socio department this afternoon for a full break down of HOW classes function...where info is posted...and how to figure out who your class rep. is...He took pity on my tears this morning! At least the students here are great...if the welcoming committee is a bit lacking :)
Monday, February 16, 2009
Touba and The Magal
After going to an intensely spiritual event or being around intensely spiritual people for any length of time I always start to have a better understanding of why people believe so strongly and how it comes about that they are so convicted. There is something very compelling about being with a group of people who are so sure of their beliefs and seem to know something that I don’t….makes my philosophical side come out a little…
The Magal in Touba is certainly one of these events.
Cheikh Ahmadou Bamba was a religious leader around the beginning of the colonial period in Senegal and although not quite a prophet, (as Prophet Mohammed is seen as the last one to have been sent) the Cheikh was seen as a renewer of the faith and is credited by the Mourides (his followers) as repairing the rupture within Islam that happened in the years after Prophet Mohammed’s death. Of the Caliphs that followed the Prophet many were killed and there was a lot of changes and unrest that broke up the line in various ways. From then the path that Islam took is seen by the Mourides as very different from the path that Prophet Mohammed intentioned, and Cheikh Ahmadou Bamba corrected that rupture. Mourides see themselves as following ‘pure Islam’ as the prophet intended. It is especially popular amongst Black Africans because it is seen as a form of Islam that grew from black Africa and not imported from the north.
In the early 1900s Cheikh Ahmadou Bamba or Serigne Touba (because he based his religious movement in the town of Touba, the center of Senegal) was exiled by colonial administrators because they were afraid of the power he had over the vast majority of the population (today Mourides make up 50% of Muslims in Senegal). The day of his exile is marked every year in Touba during a celebration called The Magal. All Mourides are required to make the pilgrimage to Touba for the celebration and so over a few days Touba becomes a thriving hub of millions of devout followers (around 2 to 4 million people estimated)!
Serigne Touba is seen as the head spiritual guide and underneath him were disciples who in turn become spiritual guides….who had disciples who became spiritual…you see the pattern….
For a Mouride to truly live their faith and to understand they must have a spiritual guide who will help them understand the Quran, help them make important life decisions, help them stay on a path of devotion and righteousness, and help them overcome trials in this life so they are prepared for the afterlife. These spiritual guides were themselves once Talibe (disciples) of a spiritual guide and have worked their way to a position to have their own Talibes. The Caliph (descendents of Serigne Touba) are the ones who recognize the spiritual guides and give them the title of ‘Cheikh.’
So there are all kinds of spiritual guides but only ones recognized by the Caliph are seen as ‘real’ spiritual guides. Some might call them Marabouts but that has a bit of a negative connotation and Mourides don’t really like it all that much…
So – we were invited by two guys in our politics class to come to Touba with them and spend The Magal at the Dara (school, house) of their spiritual guide Cheikh Moussa Diop. We had been talked about going to Touba anyway and so we thought, what a better way to experience than in the house of one of the spiritual guides.
We decided Thursday we were going to go with them and Friday morning we left. Well, Friday morning we were supposed to leave at 10 am but being Senegal and all, we ended up leaving around 1:00 after lunch. Only in Senegal, well, probably not ONLY in Senegal but certainly rarely at home, would a 200 –some kilometer drive take 10 ½ hours. Wow!!! Talk about exhausting. We left campus around 1:00 and went in to town were we met up with a bus full of Cheikh Moussa Diop’s followers. After driving for about an hour we stopped in a small town were the drive told us there was a problem with the wheel and he had to leave to get it fixed. Three hours later…three hours sitting by the side of a road in a small desolate town…the bus came back and we piled back on. Thirty minutes later…BANG…we blew a tire. At least that got fixed quickly. But shortly after we hit the turn off for Touba and the traffic began. The going was pretty slow but it was at least moving. Once we hit Touba though we slowed to very painful crawl. At one point we were stopped for 40 minutes just trying to cross the road. NO cars would let us across! Oh – and along the way we saw at least 5 car accidents. I am assuming that all the drivers aren’t Mouride because they way they were driving would certainly fall into the ‘violent’ category and Mouridism is strongly anti-violence!!!!
But we made it in the end…safe and sound! Once we got out of the van we walked towards the Cheikh’s house and everyone started singing/chanting. The men at the front of the group and the women at the back. The Cheikh was awake and waiting and we had a little audience with him were he welcomed everyone and said a little prayer. Genet, Raf, Majigeen and I were given a room apart from everyone – not to separate us from those we had traveled with but because within in Islam you are supposed to treat your visitors in a certain way to show respect for both them and for God. That was alright, it was nice to have our own space to take a break when we needed it. Majigeen is in some of our classes and had been invited by her cousin Cheikh Moussa (not the spiritual guide but just happens to have the same name) to see what the Dara was all about. I think in the end she has decided to join!
We had a fairly good nights sleep while everyone else with us slept about an hour before waking up to begin prayers for The Magal. Essentially The Magal is just everyone praying all day. There wasn’t much for us to participate in because it is a very individual thing – praying – but we sat with the women and listened to the religious chanting and singing. We also spent a good number of hours in the kitchen with the crew there caughting up veggies for the lunch and dinner. I actually have a blister on my thumb because we cut onions and carrots, and onions and carrots, and onions and carrots….and and and….
It was super interesting! Everyone was open in talking about their faith and what they believed in and why. The Cheikh especially! We had a couple of long chats with him where we got to ask questions about the faith and how things work. He had this really grandfatherly/professor quality to him that made him very charismatic. Most of his followers are students or young working people. He puts a lot of emphasis on education and on working and supporting yourself and those around you. He himself has his doctorate and still studies and teaches around the world. A lot of his explanations of the faith he relates to education and the importance of it.
Our friends who invited us Cheikh Moudo, Cheikh Salif, Cheikh Adama, and Cheikh Moussa were also super great at explaining and answering all of our questions.
Mouridism is a very interesting take on Islam. There is a strong emphasis on tolerance and on non-violence. And a very strong emphasis on loving your fellow people. You can’t love God without loving those around you and loving yourself. You can be as devout as you want to God but if you don’t treat those around you with respect and tolerance than God will not accept you in the final judgement after your death. And love God of course! That part can’t be overlooked.
Even though I can’t say I know exactly how I feel about it all, I find it hard to fault a religion that emphasizes tolerance and respect for others. That is never a bad thing! Now – the underlying emphasis on converting others or helping others be saved is a different story. And it wasn’t everyone who gave off that feeling. Most of the guys who invited us were very cool and open to talking with us without pretending to win us over.
All in all it was a very interesting weekend! Sunday we spent a couple hours in Touba to see the Mosque. There were far too many people to go in the Mosque and walking around was a bit difficult but still it was worth it. One of the most beautiful mosques I have seen. Although, mosques in general are quite beautiful! I don’t think I have ever seen an ugly one…
The trip home was much faster (alhamdullilah – thanks be to God). And now we are back on campus safe and sound and back into the whole classes thing…
What a strange out of place weekend to have when generally our weekends consist of dancing and events that are certainly not as holy. Although, it certainly got me thinking about all kinds of things. I had some fantastic conversations with the guy who invited us. That is always positive!
So – if anyone is ever in Senegal around the Magal I definitely recommend a visit to Touba. It is an experience not to be missed…
And that is all I have to say for now!
The Magal in Touba is certainly one of these events.
Cheikh Ahmadou Bamba was a religious leader around the beginning of the colonial period in Senegal and although not quite a prophet, (as Prophet Mohammed is seen as the last one to have been sent) the Cheikh was seen as a renewer of the faith and is credited by the Mourides (his followers) as repairing the rupture within Islam that happened in the years after Prophet Mohammed’s death. Of the Caliphs that followed the Prophet many were killed and there was a lot of changes and unrest that broke up the line in various ways. From then the path that Islam took is seen by the Mourides as very different from the path that Prophet Mohammed intentioned, and Cheikh Ahmadou Bamba corrected that rupture. Mourides see themselves as following ‘pure Islam’ as the prophet intended. It is especially popular amongst Black Africans because it is seen as a form of Islam that grew from black Africa and not imported from the north.
In the early 1900s Cheikh Ahmadou Bamba or Serigne Touba (because he based his religious movement in the town of Touba, the center of Senegal) was exiled by colonial administrators because they were afraid of the power he had over the vast majority of the population (today Mourides make up 50% of Muslims in Senegal). The day of his exile is marked every year in Touba during a celebration called The Magal. All Mourides are required to make the pilgrimage to Touba for the celebration and so over a few days Touba becomes a thriving hub of millions of devout followers (around 2 to 4 million people estimated)!
Serigne Touba is seen as the head spiritual guide and underneath him were disciples who in turn become spiritual guides….who had disciples who became spiritual…you see the pattern….
For a Mouride to truly live their faith and to understand they must have a spiritual guide who will help them understand the Quran, help them make important life decisions, help them stay on a path of devotion and righteousness, and help them overcome trials in this life so they are prepared for the afterlife. These spiritual guides were themselves once Talibe (disciples) of a spiritual guide and have worked their way to a position to have their own Talibes. The Caliph (descendents of Serigne Touba) are the ones who recognize the spiritual guides and give them the title of ‘Cheikh.’
So there are all kinds of spiritual guides but only ones recognized by the Caliph are seen as ‘real’ spiritual guides. Some might call them Marabouts but that has a bit of a negative connotation and Mourides don’t really like it all that much…
So – we were invited by two guys in our politics class to come to Touba with them and spend The Magal at the Dara (school, house) of their spiritual guide Cheikh Moussa Diop. We had been talked about going to Touba anyway and so we thought, what a better way to experience than in the house of one of the spiritual guides.
We decided Thursday we were going to go with them and Friday morning we left. Well, Friday morning we were supposed to leave at 10 am but being Senegal and all, we ended up leaving around 1:00 after lunch. Only in Senegal, well, probably not ONLY in Senegal but certainly rarely at home, would a 200 –some kilometer drive take 10 ½ hours. Wow!!! Talk about exhausting. We left campus around 1:00 and went in to town were we met up with a bus full of Cheikh Moussa Diop’s followers. After driving for about an hour we stopped in a small town were the drive told us there was a problem with the wheel and he had to leave to get it fixed. Three hours later…three hours sitting by the side of a road in a small desolate town…the bus came back and we piled back on. Thirty minutes later…BANG…we blew a tire. At least that got fixed quickly. But shortly after we hit the turn off for Touba and the traffic began. The going was pretty slow but it was at least moving. Once we hit Touba though we slowed to very painful crawl. At one point we were stopped for 40 minutes just trying to cross the road. NO cars would let us across! Oh – and along the way we saw at least 5 car accidents. I am assuming that all the drivers aren’t Mouride because they way they were driving would certainly fall into the ‘violent’ category and Mouridism is strongly anti-violence!!!!
But we made it in the end…safe and sound! Once we got out of the van we walked towards the Cheikh’s house and everyone started singing/chanting. The men at the front of the group and the women at the back. The Cheikh was awake and waiting and we had a little audience with him were he welcomed everyone and said a little prayer. Genet, Raf, Majigeen and I were given a room apart from everyone – not to separate us from those we had traveled with but because within in Islam you are supposed to treat your visitors in a certain way to show respect for both them and for God. That was alright, it was nice to have our own space to take a break when we needed it. Majigeen is in some of our classes and had been invited by her cousin Cheikh Moussa (not the spiritual guide but just happens to have the same name) to see what the Dara was all about. I think in the end she has decided to join!
We had a fairly good nights sleep while everyone else with us slept about an hour before waking up to begin prayers for The Magal. Essentially The Magal is just everyone praying all day. There wasn’t much for us to participate in because it is a very individual thing – praying – but we sat with the women and listened to the religious chanting and singing. We also spent a good number of hours in the kitchen with the crew there caughting up veggies for the lunch and dinner. I actually have a blister on my thumb because we cut onions and carrots, and onions and carrots, and onions and carrots….and and and….
It was super interesting! Everyone was open in talking about their faith and what they believed in and why. The Cheikh especially! We had a couple of long chats with him where we got to ask questions about the faith and how things work. He had this really grandfatherly/professor quality to him that made him very charismatic. Most of his followers are students or young working people. He puts a lot of emphasis on education and on working and supporting yourself and those around you. He himself has his doctorate and still studies and teaches around the world. A lot of his explanations of the faith he relates to education and the importance of it.
Our friends who invited us Cheikh Moudo, Cheikh Salif, Cheikh Adama, and Cheikh Moussa were also super great at explaining and answering all of our questions.
Mouridism is a very interesting take on Islam. There is a strong emphasis on tolerance and on non-violence. And a very strong emphasis on loving your fellow people. You can’t love God without loving those around you and loving yourself. You can be as devout as you want to God but if you don’t treat those around you with respect and tolerance than God will not accept you in the final judgement after your death. And love God of course! That part can’t be overlooked.
Even though I can’t say I know exactly how I feel about it all, I find it hard to fault a religion that emphasizes tolerance and respect for others. That is never a bad thing! Now – the underlying emphasis on converting others or helping others be saved is a different story. And it wasn’t everyone who gave off that feeling. Most of the guys who invited us were very cool and open to talking with us without pretending to win us over.
All in all it was a very interesting weekend! Sunday we spent a couple hours in Touba to see the Mosque. There were far too many people to go in the Mosque and walking around was a bit difficult but still it was worth it. One of the most beautiful mosques I have seen. Although, mosques in general are quite beautiful! I don’t think I have ever seen an ugly one…
The trip home was much faster (alhamdullilah – thanks be to God). And now we are back on campus safe and sound and back into the whole classes thing…
What a strange out of place weekend to have when generally our weekends consist of dancing and events that are certainly not as holy. Although, it certainly got me thinking about all kinds of things. I had some fantastic conversations with the guy who invited us. That is always positive!
So – if anyone is ever in Senegal around the Magal I definitely recommend a visit to Touba. It is an experience not to be missed…
And that is all I have to say for now!
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